Laos has always been high on our bucket list. When backpacking South East Asia we knew we needed to end up there. It’s a small landlocked country but it has a lot to offer. It’s not as popular as neighbouring Thailand and that makes it more peaceful and affordable. Laos has a very interesting history and beautiful nature, it shouldn’t be missed. This is how to take the slow boat from Thailand to Laos, you can also check out our Laos Guide and Itinerary here.
Getting Started
There are multiple options to get to Laos from Thailand and we spent some time trying to figure out the best one. You can fly or take an overnight bus. However, we believe taking the slow boat from Thailand to Laos was a great decision and one of our most memorable experiences in South East Asia. Instead of sitting on a bus for 11 hours on windy roads you can enjoy the views down the Mekong river from the boat and connect with other backpackers that are on the same journey. The slow boat does take two days, but it is definitely worth it.
We booked our tickets online on 12go.asia which is a very useful website when travelling South East Asia. You can also book in person with many local travel agents. The total price was £40 per person and this included the full transfer from your hotel in Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang. We opted for the affordable option which most backpackers go for. However, if you don’t mind paying more you can get to Laos on a more comfortable boat, which would cost you around £150 per person.
Crossing the Border into Laos – Day One
We got picked up around 6:00am from our hostel in Chiang Rai and the shared van drove us to the Thai-Laos border which took around 2 hours. If you come from Chiang Mai you can book a package which includes a visit to the beautiful temples of Chiang Rai.
At the border you will need to fill in some paperwork and apply for a visa on arrival, unless you already have an e-visa. We chose to get an e-visa in advance to save some time at the border. The visa on arrival costs $40 for most nationalities and you will need cash for this. You should be able to pay in USD, Thai Baht, or Laotian Kip, but we would recommend double checking as things can change. We also recommend taking some passport sized photos with you for the visa. Our driver was on hand to assist with all of this at the border.
Once we were through the border control, we had another transport waiting to take us to the slow boat in Huay Xai. Whilst we waited for the boat to depart, they provided us with lunch which was a French style baguette. We don’t think they normally offer it in the cheaper options so bring plenty of snacks! On the boat you can mainly just get beer, or possibly some instant noodles. Whilst waiting, people selling SIM cards approached us. It’s more expensive to buy it from them than once you arrive in Luang Prabang, but if you feel like you need one that’s an option. Just don’t expect it to work most of the time on the boat.
The Boat to Pak Beng – Day One
The boat was very crowded and it was hard to find seats! We recommended heading to it as early as possible. Despite the lack of space on the boat, everyone was very friendly and we honestly had a great experience interacting with other travellers. We also loved the views along the river, and we even saw elephants. The first day on the boat took around 7 hours to get to the village of Pak Beng.
You will spend the night in the village, and you need to book your own accommodation. You should book online in advance to make sure you have somewhere comfortable to rest. We stayed in Villa Mekong Guesthouse and paid £12 for a double room. When you arrive at Pak Beng someone from your hostel should pick you up. The village is a great place to spend the night and experience local life on the Mekong river. In the village there are plenty of restaurants where you can enjoy some food and unwind with other travellers.
Travelling to Luang Prabang – Day Two
Our accommodation provided a shuttle in the morning to get to the boat. However, as it wasn’t far we walked to the pier early in the morning to make sure we grabbed a seat as the first day we were swapping and sharing. We bought some breakfast and lunch from a bakery near the pier and took it on the boat so we had enough food for the journey.
The second day we spent around 8 hours on the boat until we got to Luang Prabang. Locals use the boat too so it stopped in some places to pick them up. Everyone felt more energetic than on the first day. People were playing games, drinking beers and listening to music but with plenty of respect for others.
We arrived on the outskirts of Luang Prabang just before sunset. Once off the boat there were tuk-tuks waiting to take you to the centre. We paid them around £2 per person. About 20 minutes later we were checking into our hotel after surviving the slow boat. The next morning in Luang Prabang we noticed plenty of tour agents offering Mekong cruises but we felt like 2 days on it was enough for us!
Final Thoughts
Overall, we would definitely recommend taking the slow boat from Thailand to Laos as an ultimate backpacker experience. It’s a great way to experience travelling at a slower pace and make friends with other travellers. The boat is definitely very crowded and not the most comfortable but it’s an adventure! Make sure you take plenty of food, water and something to entertain yourself with. There is also an option to do the journey the other way if you are going from Laos to Thailand . We hope this has helped prepare you for taking the slow boat from Thailand to Laos.
